Climbing

Cochamó: The high and the wild … and how to keep it that way

Published in NZ Adventure Magazine, April/May 2023


Adventure climbing in Spain: The road less travelled

Published in NZ Adventure Magazine, Feb/March 2023


Alpine climbing in a warming climate: The times, they’re not for wasting

Published in NZ Adventure Magazine, Dec 2022/Jan 2023


Alpine cragging vs danger-walking: The other access conundrum

Published in NZ Climbing Journal, Autumn 2022


Butt Hurt: When a first ascent mission leaves you broken tail-boned.

Published in NZ Climbing Journal, Autumn 2022


The Central Darrans: The line of most radness

Published in NZ Climbing Journal, Spring 2022


A firsthand account of a free-solo accident in the Sierra Nevada

Published in Outside Online, September 2021


The Darrans: Sinbad, Terror Peak, and the barely believable 11-day weather window

Published in NZ Climbing Journal, Autumn 2021


Go with the flow

Published in New Zealand Adventure, April/May 2021


Second Chances: Turning a terrifying fall into an opportunity

Published in New Zealand Adventure, April/May 2021


Chasing the High, lucky charms: When free solos go wrong

Published in The Climber, July 2020


The Access Conundrum

Published in The Climber, March 2020


Chasing the High: El Capitan

Published in The Climber, January 2020


More than a decade of vanlife

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Dec/Jan 2020/21


Chasing the High: Free solo

Published in The Climber, July 2019


Dirtbag Dispatches: The three priorities of mountain climbing

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, June/July 2019


Chasing The High: Mexico

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, June/July 2019


Lucky Charms

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, April/May 2019


Chasing The High: Kalymnos

Published in The Climber, Jan 2019


Dirtbag Dispatches: The Totem Pole

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Dec 2018/Jan 2019


Chasing The High – Indian Creek

Published in The Climber, Oct 2018


Dirtbag Dispatches: Australia’s climbing meccas

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Oct/Nov 2018


Dirtbag Dispatches: Dirtbag Queens

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Aug/Sept 2018


Chasing The High – Why is climbing so glorious?

Published in The Climber, July 2018


Dirtbag Dispatches: The Real Big Drip

Published in Adventure Magazine, June/July 2018


Dirtbag Dispatches: Land of the Free – A tour of Indian Creek and the Red River Gorge

Published in Adventure Magazine, Feb/March 2018


Leavittation: the origins of hand-stacking. A look at how this crack climbing technique developed from Randy Leavitt and Tony Yaniro.

Published in Gripped Magazine, November 2017


Dirtbag Dispatches: Intestinal Misadventures of the Vertical World – the cruel and embarrassing toilet mishaps of climbing adventures.

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ in Oct/Nov 2017


Dirtbag Distpaches: King of the Rockies, an account of climbing the Emperor Ridge of Mt Robson, the tallest peak in the Canadian Rockies

Published in Gripped in Apr/May 2017, and in NZ Adventure Magazine in Aug/Sept 2017


Dirtbag Dispatches: She’ll be right … maybe – a winter of optimism bias leads to some close calls, from 8m falls on ice to being dragged down by a sudden avalanche

(features photography from myself and Alex Ratson)

Published in NZ Adventure Magazine, June/July 2017


Remembering Anna Smith: a tribute to my friend, her climbing exploits, and her feminist streak. She tragically passed away in India in 2016

Published in Terra Incognita Media, July 2017


Dirtbag Dispatches: Grizzly Bites – the survival story of a horrific grizzly attack on a pair of British climbers in a remote part of the Canadian Rockies.

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Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Apr/May 2016


Dirtbag Dispatches: China Rocks – a visit to the climbing meccas of China, from Yangshuo to Getu to Li Ming.

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, Feb/March 2016


Dirtbag Dispatches: The Darran Mountains – New Zealand’s rain-swept climbing mecca.

Published in New Zealand Adventure Magazine, December 2016/January 2017


Remembering Anna Smith.

Published in Gripped Magazine, Canada, December 2016


Logan Barber and his trad-climbing exploits in China, in which he repeating the country’s hardest trad route, and then establishing two harder ones.

Published in Outside China, November 2016. Story by Derek Cheng, photos by Garrett Bradley.


Dirtbag Dispatches: Solo Scrambles

Published in Adventure Magazine, New Zealand, Oct/Nov 2016


Profile of American climber Mike Dobie, who overcame many obstacles – including alcohol addiction – to become a leading developer in China.

Published in Outside China, October 2016. Story by Derek Cheng, photos by Garrett Bradley


Dirtbag Dispatches: The Big Stone

Published in Adventure Magazine, New Zealand, Aug/Sept 2016


Dirtbag Dispatches: The First Rule of Ice Climbing is


Published in Gripped Magazine Dec 2016, and in Adventure Magazine New Zealand, June/July 2016


Enhancing the experience: bigger, bolder, scarier – a foray into the alpine.

Published in The Climber, April 2016


Filling in the blanks: a photo essay on Li Ming and Keketuohai, in China.

Published in Ascent Magazine, April 2016. Text by Derek Cheng, photos by Garrett Bradley


Dirtbag Dispatches – Vanlife, a love affair.

Published in NZ Adventure Magazine, Feb/March 2016


Dirtbag Diaries – the beach climbing paradise of Tonsai, Thailand

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, Dec/Jan 2015/16, and in Gripped Magazine, June 2016


The Quiet American – a profile of American climber Mike Dobie, who has overcame addiction and found purpose in developing trad-routes in remote, rock-filled corners of China.

action asia - dobie

Published in Action Asia, Nov 2015


Dirtbag Diaries: Climbing campsites both worryingly fragile and wonderfully therapeutic

 Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, Oct/Nov 2015


Kuching: Climbing on Malaysia’s Borneo Island

Published in Gripped, SEPT 2015


The Dirtbag Diaries: Half Dome, the world’s first big wall

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, Aug/Sept 2015


China Rocks

Published in Travel 360, July 2015


The Dirtbag Diaries: The Bugaboos, Canada

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, June/July 2015

An update from Tonsai: it’s not falling apart.

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Published in Action Asia, May 2015, and Vertical Life, May 2015.


How to survive a fall: Eight months after falling 16m to the ground, Norwegian climber Raanveig Aamodt climbed harder than she ever had.

Fall

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, April/May 2015


The Dirtbag Diaries: Is there anything more absurd than rock climbing?

dirtbag column 1

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, Feb/March 2015


The Dirtbag Diaries: the life and times of a dirtbag climber

Published in Adventure Magazine NZ, Dec/Jan 2014/15


Atlas Shreiked: A first ascent in the Anti-Atlas Mountains in Morocco

Published in UK Climb magazine, October 2014; in GRIPPED magazine, October 2014, in Adventure Magazine NZ, Oct/Nov 2014


Chasing the high: An ode to dirtbaggery

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Published in the New Zealand Herald, August 20, 2014


New sandstone trad-climbing paradise Li Ming, China

Published in The Climber, Autumn 2014; and in GRIPPED magazine, Apr 2013


Fire and Limestone: A fireworks accident leads to disaster at a new climbing area in Laos

Published in Vertical Life 5, 2013


A season in the incomparable Grampians and Arapiles

Published in ROCK magazine, Sept 2012 (now defunct)


Escalada Latino, a look at crags in Latin America

Published in The Climber, Aug 2010